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There’s something downright magical about Secret Season on the Northern California coast. Last week it was our coastline in San Mateo county; this week we point the car north for a road trip to Fort Bragg and Healdsburg. Early in the year when crowds thin, rates dip, and you spot handwritten “Gone for Winter Break” signs, you know you’ve timed it just right. Fewer people, better prices, more ocean for you. We scored a few midweek nights at Noyo Harbor Inn—one of those “someday” stays that suddenly slides into budget territory. From there we explored on foot: down to the working harbor, across the massive bridge that framed our balcony view, and north along the coastal trail toward MacKerricher State Park. On the way home, add a unique wine tasting at Martha Stoumen and leisurely dinner at plant-based Little Saint, both in downtown Healdsburg, and you’ve got a coastal escape that feels restorative, trendy, and deliciously under the radar.
And let’s just say it: the old “Fort Drag” nickname no longer fits. Fort Bragg, (just north of Mendocino) has started to find its groove. What was once a blink-and-you’re-through-it logging town now hums with creative energy—good coffee, thoughtful restaurants, artful shops, and a harbor scene that’s equal parts working waterfront and weekend hangout. It’s scrappy-meets-sophisticated: maritime grit with a fresh coat of cool.
Noyo Harbor Inn
I’ve traveled to and stayed in and around Fort Bragg many times, but never noticed the harbor— the only working harbor between San Francisco and Crescent City—until this trip. A stop of notoriety, it’s been the setting for Hollywood movies and the television series “Murder She Wrote.” Our room at Noyo Harbor Inn overlooked it, and honestly, the balcony was prime entertainment. Fishing boats idled out, sea lions barking, dock hands hustling—low enough to see the action, high enough to spy in cozy anonymity. Rise early and you’ll catch the lights flicking on at Caito Fisheries before sunrise. Wander down for a chowder or crab lunch at Noyo Fish Company, then return as harbor lights twinkle on at spots like Sea Pal Cove. One-night, live music drifted up from Sea Pal Cove to our balcony. Should we enjoy it wrapped in blankets from our cozy Adirondack chairs or wander down to dance around the real fire pit? Location perk: you can do both.
The original lodge dates to 1868, with the most recent renovations completed in 2017. The room was a stunner—floor-to-ceiling windows framed in dark wood, a dusty-gray sofa, and a gas fireplace anchoring the cozy sitting area. I wrote from the balcony, inspired by the river and bridge stretched wide below.
Thoughtful details elevate the stay: a proper French press at sunrise, plush robes, and a deep soaking tub wrapped in windows for a harbor-view bath. Even a squeaky walrus and bath salts wait beside the tub—because every great soak deserves a little whimsy.
Get Your Hike In
In the morning, we set out on a 12-mile RT coastal trek along the Ka Kahleh Trail—a mostly flat stretch tracing the shoreline. It’s just you, the crashing surf, and a wild ribbon of coastline, unless you detour into town—so pack a picnic. Continue past Laguna Point to MacKerricher State Park for the full 12 miles (about five hours). Prefer wheels? You can walk the dirt bluffs or bike the paved path from the inn straight to the park.
Dinner at Harbor View Bistro and Bar
We earned our dinner at Harbor Bistro and Bar, where the view is just as captivating as the Inn. The menu leans coastal—fresh seafood, seasonal produce (some grown onsite) comforting plates. It’s the kind of place where you linger over a glass of wine, or a specialty cocktail concocted with a selection of Noyo Inn’s Organic Bitters, created by resident mixologist Laura Spradlin. We started with Beet Napolean Salad— a gorgeous, layered appetizer with creamy pesto and crunchy pistachio ($18). Nothing new here — I chose the Flash Fried Brussels Sprouts with parmesan, walnut and a sherry-wine-maple reduction ($16), and they did not disappoint. Three Cheese Lasagna Primavera with grilled eggplant and squash was my delicious entree with plenty left for the hike next day ($34). The fish on the Halibut with Corn Risotto was a little over cooked—and corn being a summer crop might be rethought—but the risotto was delicious and the serving very generous.
For dessert we went with the Tiramisu and warm Apple Cinnamon Beignets stuffed with ricotta with caramel sauce drizzled over melting vanilla ice cream (both $12).
At night, the wharf turns edgy and atmospheric—guitars drifting through the fog while distant horns sound across the harbor. Don’t miss a stop at Schnaubelt Distillery while you’re down there. After live music at the Pal (local name), we wandered back to the Inn’s cigar gazebo overlooking the water to explore the Coast’s most extensive whiskey list. My guest chose a special pour of Speyburn single malt, a nod to their mother’s Scottish homeland—distilled since 1897 in a wooded glen beside the Granty Burn.
Noyo Harbor Inn rooms range from about $246 in early January to $427 in August, so book ahead—or keep this one saved “in your folder” for next year.
Harbor View Bistro and Bar: 9 AM – 9 PM | Happy Hour 2PM – 5:30PM
Happy Hour – Martha Stoumen
On the way home, we slipped in just in time for happy hour at newly opened Martha Stoumen for a distinctly original tasting. Known for her “culture of patience,” the first-generation natural winemaker and UC Davis graduate explores California’s authentic flavors through sustainable and dry farming and minimal-intervention winemaking. California has no shortage of great wineries, but Martha Stoumen stands apart—pushing expectations of what a wine can be. A true renaissance spirit. Our server Andy simply calls her a genius.
We tasted the Nero d’Avola Rosato, a gender-bending dark rosé—my notes read: “what the?— fantastic, so unique.” Benchlands, a co-ferment of red grapes (Nero d’Avola, Petite Sirah, Valdiguié, Carignan) with white Colombard, delivered something entirely new to my palate. We also tried her Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most important red grape and still rare in the U.S.—a layered symphony of plum and cocoa nib. Next time you visit Healdsburg – put this tasting room on your To-Do list.
Martha Stoumen: 325 Center Street, Healdsburg
Open Wednesday–Sunday, 12–8 PM. Walk-ins welcome; reservations available online.
Dinner – Little Saint
Opened in 2023, Little Saint replaced the beloved neighborhood spot Shed and has quickly become a favorite in its own right. This entirely plant-based restaurant celebrates vegetables in an artful, homey, bohemian space filled with cozy seating, vibrant artwork, and beautifully presented dishes. It’s inspiring to see how creatively chefs are reimagining plant-forward cuisine.
Though the full bar is tempting, we began with You Glow Girl, a refreshing mocktail made with chamomile “hunny” and blueberry-mint rooibos tea ($13) — balanced, lightly sweet, and deeply satisfying. The nonalcoholic beverage program stands out, even featuring inventive seasonal shrubs and oh-my don’t We Love Shrub?
We opened with the Crispy Falafel Platter with focaccia ($25), a vibrant introduction to vegetable heaven, served with tangy tofu feta and Swiss chard from their garden. A side of Slow-braised fennel ($18), paired with masala-spiced yogurt sauce, delivered warm, aromatic flavor, though the fennel could have used a touch more cooking for full tenderness. For the main course, the Wild Mushroom Red Wine Bourguignon ($30) shined — deeply savory mushrooms and roasted seasonal vegetables layered over creamy Front Porch Farm polenta.
Dessert, always a highlight, included Rye Brownie Sundae ($16)—a dense, gooey walnut-studded tower crowned with rosemary caramel sauce. The Seasonal Tart ($12) offered a bright, lemony contrast with a silky, pudding-like filling. I’ll take a second serving of both please.
Little Saint also features a spacious upstairs venue for events, live gatherings, and Free Music Thursdays — worth checking their calendar before your visit. Saint Vincent is playing March 3rd.
Little Saint: Daily 8 AM – 9 PM | Happy Hour 3 PM – 6 PM
- photos courtesy of LSIC
