|
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...
|
You’ve likely not tasted Indian food quite like this – Khaar in Sunnyvale is bringing hard-to-find Northeast Indian cuisine to Silicon Valley.
Distinct from the abundant variety of North and South Indian restaurants in the Bay Area, Khaar specializes in cuisine from the Seven Sisters States, a nickname for seven contiguous northeastern states. Northeast Indian cuisine pulls from nearby countries such as Nepal, Myanmar and even China, owner Nandana Hazarika explained, and uses ingredients such as black sesame, fermented mustard, mustard oil and fermented bamboo shoot.
“I think the most beautiful thing about (Northeast Indian food) is all these flavors are very soothing, it’s not overwhelming … It will not make you overly filled or heavy,” she continued. “We focus more on the ingredients and the taste of it rather than the heavy spices, creams or dairy.”
Khaar soft opened in downtown Sunnyvale Aug. 14 and held its grand opening Sept. 12. Khaar is Hazarika’s debut restaurant and a longtime dream come true, she said. Born in Assam, one of the Seven Sisters, Hazarika has lived in the Bay Area for almost 18 years and worked much of her career as a software engineer and data analyst.
Four years ago, Hazarika decided to follow her dreams and audition for “MasterChef India.” While she was ultimately cut before the show started filming, the experience taught her that she needed to become more organized and efficient in the kitchen. So she enrolled in culinary school and interned at The Oxford Kitchen & Gastropub in Lodi.
When the owner of The Oxford Kitchen & Gastropub wanted to sell his Sunnyvale restaurant, Hazarika jumped at the opportunity to take over the restaurant space and share her Northeast Indian flavors with the Bay Area.
The name Khaar comes from the phrase “Khaar Khuwa Axomiya,” which literally translates to “the Khaar-eating Assamese people,” but is an Assamese phrase used to describe a native person from Assam. Khaar is an alkaline liquid extract made by burning sun-dried peels of the banana plant and filtering water through the ashes, and it’s traditionally used in Assamese cooking.
Much of Northeast Indian food is naturally gluten-free and dairy-free, with an emphasis on rice-based grains and minimal usage of dairy products. While Northeast Indian food does emphasize meat and fish, Khaar’s menu also caters to vegetarians and vegans.
For appetizers, Hazarika recommends the signature Khaar croquette ($18), which she describes as somewhat similar to arrancini. The Khaar croquette is made with Assamese alkaline rice and is filled with flaky fish and fermented mushroom. Another popular appetizer is the Bamboo Blaze, made with a choice of fried chicken wings, lotus stems, tofu or paneer tossed in a fermented bamboo shoot seasoning and honey chilli sauce.
For mains, Hazarika suggests trying the Black Sesame Heritage, made with a choice of slow-cooked chicken or pork in a roasted black sesame curry and served with banana leaf-wrapped sticky rice ($29), or the Chef’s Special Golden Blossom, a dish of fried and stuffed squash blossoms served with smoked bell pepper tomato sauce and cracked wheat pulao ($32).
The dessert menu features options such as chilled mango tapioca, black sesame cheesecake, black rice pudding and Assam tea creme brulee ($7.49-$13).
Khaar offers a full bar, with mocktails such as an Assam tea spritzer and a bamboo and basil soda ($11), as well as cocktails such as smoked Assam old fashioned and a chai martini ($15). A California-focused wine list is also available by the glass ($10-$20) and bottle ($42-$76), as well as draft beer by the pint ($10) and half-pint ($6).
The restaurant seats 135 inside and has additional outdoor seating. The walls are adorned with pictures of tea farms in Assam, as well as Jaapi, traditional red-accented conical hats used as a sunshade for farmers.
Hazarika said that she thinks that Northeast Indian food isn’t common in the United States because the community isn’t that big to begin with, and those who do live here don’t typically work in the culinary industry. She hopes that Khaar will be the gateway for people to discover Northeast Indian flavors and that eventually Northeast Indian restaurants will be more prevalent nationwide.
Khaar, 193 S. Murphy Ave., Sunnyvale; 408-212-4704, Instagram: @khaarsunnyvale. Open Sunday and Tuesday to Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.
Dig into food news. Follow the Peninsula Foodist on Instagram and subscribe to the newsletter to get insights on the latest openings and closings, learn what the Foodist is excited about eating, read exclusive interviews and keep up on the trends affecting local restaurants.
